Ten O'Clock from JFK: JetBlue's Nonstop to St. Kitts and Nevis

The flight leaves at ten. No dawn alarm. No change of aircraft. No connection to chase with a bag somewhere behind. Passengers walk into Terminal 5 at JFK at a civilised hour, board JetBlue 296, and step off it in the Federation of St. Kitts and Nevis the same afternoon.

Just over four hours in the air. Tuesdays, Thursdays and Sundays. An Airbus A320 with Wi-Fi and a screen at every seat. And, this is the part that matters most: the service runs year-round, not only in winter.

Arrival comes with the day still intact. Immigration in the afternoon, Frigate Bay twenty minutes later, the Southeast Peninsula in half an hour. The first evening is a proper dinner watching the light go off the water, not a sandwich eaten in defeat at a connecting gate.

St. Kitts

The larger island wears its history in stone. Brimstone Hill Fortress stands eight hundred feet above the sea, black volcanic rock raised over a century. The Scenic Railway, the last of its kind in the Eastern Caribbean, still runs the narrow-gauge track laid for the sugar estates, tracing the northern coast at walking pace.

Mount Liamuiga rises behind it all, a rainforest climb to the rim of a dormant crater, usually in the company of vervet monkeys. Lower down the same slopes, zip lines run above the ruins of Wingfield Estate, and the great house at Romney Manor sits in gardens built around a four-hundred-year-old saman tree, where Caribelle Batik still dyes cloth by hand.

And then the Southeast Peninsula. South Friar's Bay in the late afternoon. Cockleshell Bay looking straight across the channel at Nevis. The overlook at Timothy Hill, where the Atlantic and the Caribbean meet in a single frame.

Nevis

Just a short ferry ride from Basseterre, or a water taxi, the pace changes again. Pinney's Beach runs three uninterrupted miles of pale sand and palms, with Four Seasons Resort Nevis at the centre of it and, a short walk along the sand, Sunshine's Beach Bar and Grill. Llewellyn "Sunshine" Caines has been pouring the Killer Bee there for decades: a rum punch whose recipe has never left the family, sweet, deceptively easy, finished with fresh nutmeg, and entirely deserving of its name. One is an introduction. Two require respect. The walls carry licence plates from every corner of the earth, which is the most honest review the bar could have.

Nevis Peak stands in cloud above the whole island, a green volcanic cone that rewards the climb and forgives those who admire it from a hammock instead. The Botanical Gardens spread across the southern slopes. Horses run along Pinney's at low tide. Turtles nest on the quieter beaches, and hawksbills feed over the reefs off Oualie, where the sailing, kayaking and snorkelling are among the finest in the Federation.

Charlestown is a working Caribbean town of Georgian stone and painted shutters, where Alexander Hamilton was born and the museum in his family's house tells the story. The Bath Hot Springs have been drawing visitors since the eighteenth century. Every March, swimmers cross the two and a half miles of open channel from Nevis to St. Kitts, a race now a quarter of a century old. Every summer, Culturama takes over the island for a week of calypso, street parade and food.

Higher up, on the Gingerland slopes, the plantation inns, Montpelier, Golden Rock, the Hermitage offer a rarer kind of hospitality: stone great houses, gardens run wild in the best way, and a gin and tonic poured at six.

Planning the trip

New York is the gateway, not the boundary. JetBlue 296 loads at Terminal 5, and Terminal 5 is fed by the airline's whole network: Boston, Hartford, Providence, Buffalo, Chicago, Washington, Atlanta, Nashville, Fort Lauderdale, Orlando, Denver, Las Vegas, Seattle, San Francisco, Los Angeles, and Vancouver on the Canadian side. Travellers from across North America reach the Federation on one airline and one bag tag, changing aircraft once without leaving the building. Canadian visitors have a second door in season, with Air Canada flying direct from Toronto through the winter months.

And the rhythm does not break. Tuesday, Thursday, Sunday. February and July alike. Three mornings a week, every month of the year, the ten o'clock aircraft comes in over the green shoulder of Mount Liamuiga and turns for the runway, and two islands get on with the business of being worth the journey.

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