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The Estée Lauder Companies Reports Fiscal 2023 Results

August 18, 2023 6:45 AM

Full Year Net Sales Decreased 10% and Diluted EPS Decreased 57% to $2.79

Organic Net Sales1 Decreased 6% and Adjusted Diluted EPS Fell 49% in Constant Currency

Achieved Fourth Quarter Net Sales Growth, As Expected

Expect to Return to Organic Net Sales Growth and Deliver Progressive Margin Recovery in Fiscal 2024

NEW YORK--(BUSINESS WIRE)-- The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. (NYSE: EL) today reported net sales of $15.91 billion for its fiscal year ended June 30, 2023, a decrease of 10% from $17.74 billion in the prior year. Organic net sales fell 6%, primarily driven by Asia travel retail in Hainan and Korea, partially offset by growth in nearly every market in both Asia/Pacific and Europe, the Middle East & Africa (“EMEA”). Total organic net sales in the Company’s emerging markets2 and in Fragrance each rose double digits.

The Company reported net earnings3 of $1.01 billion, compared with net earnings of $2.39 billion in the prior year. Diluted net earnings per common share was $2.79, compared with $6.55 reported in the prior year. Excluding restructuring and other charges and adjustments as detailed on page 3, adjusted diluted net earnings per common share was $3.46, a 49% decrease in constant currency. The reported and adjusted declines include an unfavorable impact of 5% and 4%, respectively, from certain foreign currency transactions in key international travel retail locations.

Fabrizio Freda, President and Chief Executive Officer said, “We returned to organic sales growth in the fourth quarter, delivering our outlook. Momentum continued in the markets of EMEA and Latin America, and accelerated strongly in Asia/Pacific led by mainland China and Hong Kong SAR.

For full-year fiscal 2023, we delivered organic sales growth and prestige beauty share gains in many developed and emerging markets, but Asia travel retail pressured results, particularly in Skin Care, and we continued to experience softness in North America. Fragrance excelled, up double digits in every region, and Makeup improved sequentially to double-digit growth in the fourth quarter as more markets emerged into the post-pandemic era.

1 Organic net sales represents net sales excluding returns associated with restructuring and other activities; non-comparable impacts of acquisitions, divestitures and brand closures; as well as the impact of foreign currency translation. The Company believes that the Non-GAAP measure of organic net sales growth provides year-over-year sales comparisons on a consistent basis. See page 3 for reconciliations to GAAP.

2 The Company’s emerging markets are India, the Middle East, Turkey, South Africa, Central Europe, Israel, Russia, Kazakhstan, Thailand, Malaysia, Vietnam, Indonesia, the Philippines, Singapore, Brazil, Mexico, Chile, Colombia, Panama, Peru and Argentina.

3 Net earnings attributable to The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. which excludes net earnings attributable to redeemable noncontrolling interests for the fiscal years ended June 30, 2023 and 2022, and net earnings attributable to noncontrolling interests for the fiscal year ended June 30, 2022.

For fiscal year 2024, we expect to return to organic sales growth and deliver sequentially improving margin throughout the year, leveraging the strong equity and desirability of our brands. We are focused on driving momentum in markets that are thriving and re-accelerating growth in North America. In Asia travel retail, we are taking actions to capture demand from the returning individual travelers and continuing to reduce inventories in the trade as we navigate the current market headwinds. In this new fiscal year, we also intend to set the stage for a stronger fiscal year 2025 acceleration, with a very robust innovation pipeline planned across the two years and progressive margin rebuilding plans.”

Business Update

In the fiscal 2023 fourth quarter, net sales returned to growth, increasing 1% on a reported basis and 4% organically, reflecting growth in Makeup, Fragrance and Hair Care as well as double-digit growth in the Company’s emerging markets globally. The decline in Skin Care net sales primarily reflected the ongoing challenges in the Company’s Asia travel retail business. Net sales grew in nearly all markets in Asia/Pacific and EMEA as they continued to progress in recovery from the COVID-19 pandemic and benefited from the Company’s strategic investments in advertising and promotional activities, innovation and targeted expanded consumer reach.

For the full fiscal year ended June 30, 2023, the operating environment continued to be disrupted by the impact of the COVID-19 pandemic. Most notably, the pace of recovery in Asia travel retail and mainland China was slower than anticipated. In Hainan, prolonged store closures initially presented a headwind and, thereafter, low levels of conversion occurred when travel resumed. This was compounded by inventory tightening by certain retailers. In Korea, the travel retail business slowed during the transition to post-COVID regulations. In addition, the slower than anticipated resumption of international flights, granting of visas, and organized group tours further challenged the Asia travel retail recovery. As a result, the Company’s Asia travel retail business was challenged throughout the fiscal year by the slower than anticipated recovery. In mainland China, the Company’s performance in the first half of fiscal 2023 was hindered by low retail traffic as a result of COVID-related restrictions and the rise in COVID-19 cases.

Elsewhere, the recovery from the COVID-19 pandemic progressed across markets globally over the course of the fiscal year as restrictions lifted. In the West, the Company’s recovery from the pandemic continued with strong organic net sales growth in nearly all markets in EMEA and in Latin America. In Asia/Pacific, the Company’s markets emerged strongly into recovery across the fiscal year, to deliver broad-based organic net sales growth throughout the region.

In the United States, organic net sales growth was unfavorably impacted by the slower than anticipated pace of the Company’s improvement at retail and the tightening of inventory by certain retailers in the first half of fiscal 2023 due to inflationary pressures and recession concerns.

Finally, the Company’s business was also pressured by the strong U.S. dollar, inflation and recession concerns globally.

Fiscal 2023 Results

Reported net sales decreased 10%, including the net impact of the fiscal 2022 license terminations related to certain of the Company’s designer fragrances and royalty revenue from the fiscal 2023 fourth quarter acquisition of the TOM FORD brand, as well as the negative impact from foreign currency translation.

Royalty revenue from the acquisition of the TOM FORD brand is reflected in the Other product category and in The Americas region net sales. The acquisition was $.01 dilutive to earnings per share for the three and twelve months ended June 30, 2023, which includes higher interest expense and savings from royalty payments no longer owed by the Company.

Reconciliation between GAAP and Non-GAAP Net Sales Growth
(Unaudited)

Year Ended
June 30, 2023(1)

As Reported-GAAP

(10

)%

Impact of acquisitions, divestitures and brand closures, net

1

Impact of foreign currency translation

4

Returns associated with restructuring and other activities

Organic, Non-GAAP

(6

)%

(1)Percentages are calculated on an individual basis

Adjusted diluted net earnings per common share excludes restructuring and other charges and adjustments as detailed in the following table.

Reconciliation between GAAP and Non-GAAP - Diluted Net Earnings Per Share (“EPS”)
(Unaudited)

Year Ended June 30

2023

2022

Growth

As Reported EPS - GAAP

$

2.79

$

6.55

(57

)%

Non-GAAP

Restructuring and other charges

.18

.31

Change in fair value of acquisition-related stock options (less the portion attributable to
redeemable noncontrolling interest)

.05

(.12

)

Other intangible asset impairments

.44

.50

Adjusted EPS - Non-GAAP

$

3.46

$

7.24

(52

)%

Impact of foreign currency translation on earnings per share

.26

Adjusted Constant Currency EPS - Non-GAAP

$

3.72

$

7.24

(49

)%

Net sales and operating income in nearly all of the Company’s product categories and regions were impacted by a stronger U.S. dollar in relation to most currencies. Reported net sales was unfavorably impacted by 4% of foreign currency translation, primarily reflecting a negative impact in Asia/Pacific and EMEA of 8% and 3%, respectively. In addition, reported and organic net sales were unfavorably impacted by 1% from foreign currency transactions in key international travel retail locations, with a negative impact in EMEA of 2%.

Total reported operating income was $1.51 billion, a decrease from $3.17 billion in the prior year. In constant currency, adjusted operating income decreased 44% to $1.95 billion, primarily reflecting lower net sales and higher cost of sales, and excludes the following items:

Results by Product Category
(Unaudited)

Year Ended June 30

Net Sales

Percentage Change(1)

Operating
Income (Loss)

Percentage
Change

($ in millions)

2023

2022

Reported
Basis

Impact of
Acquisitions,
Divestitures
and Brand
Closures, Net

Impact of
Foreign
Currency
Translation

Organic
Net Sales
(Non-GAAP)

2023

2022

Reported
Basis

Skin Care

$

8,202

$

9,886

(17

)%

%

3

%

(14

)%

$

1,204

$

2,753

(56

)%

Makeup

4,516

4,667

(3

)

4

(22

)

133

(100

+)

Fragrance

2,512

2,508

9

4

14

440

456

(4

)

Hair Care

653

631

3

3

6

(34

)

(28

)

(21

)

Other

54

49

10

(28

)

4

(13

)

6

100

Subtotal

$

15,937

$

17,741

(10

)%

1

%

4

%

(6

)%

$

1,594

$

3,314

(52

)%

Returns/charges
associated with
restructuring and
other activities

(27

)

(4

)

(85

)

(144

)

Total

$

15,910

$

17,737

(10

)%

1

%

4

%

(6

)%

$

1,509

$

3,170

(52

)%

(1)Percentages are calculated on an individual basis

The product category net sales commentary below reflects organic performance, excluding the negative impacts which are reflected in the preceding table.

Skin Care

Makeup

Fragrance

Hair Care

Results by Geographic Region
(Unaudited)

Year Ended June 30

Net Sales

Percentage Change(1)

Operating
Income (Loss)

Percentage
Change

($ in millions)

2023

2022

Reported
Basis

Impact of
Acquisitions,
Divestitures
and Brand
Closures, Net

Impact of
Foreign
Currency
Translation

Organic
Net Sales
(Non-GAAP)

2023

2022

Reported
Basis

The Americas

$

4,518

$

4,623

(2

)%

2

%

%

%

$

(73

)

$

1,159

(100

+)%

Europe, the
Middle East &
Africa

6,225

7,681

(19

)

1

3

(16

)

843

1,360

(38

)

Asia/Pacific

5,194

5,437

(4

)

8

4

824

795

4

Subtotal

$

15,937

$

17,741

(10

)%

1

%

4

%

(6

)%

$

1,594

$

3,314

(52

)%

Returns/charges
associated with
restructuring and
other activities

(27

)

(4

)

(85

)

(144

)

Total

$

15,910

$

17,737

(10

)%

1

%

4

%

(6

)%

$

1,509

$

3,170

(52

)%

(1)Percentages are calculated on an individual basis

The geographic region net sales commentary below reflects organic performance, excluding the negative impacts which are reflected in the preceding table.

The Americas

Europe, the Middle East & Africa

4 Emerging markets in EMEA are India, the Middle East, Turkey, South Africa, Central Europe, Israel, Russia and Kazakhstan.

Asia/Pacific

Cash Flows

Fourth Quarter Results

As the Company disclosed on July 18, 2023, it identified a cybersecurity incident involving an unauthorized third party that gained access to some of the Company’s systems. After becoming aware of the incident, the Company proactively took down some of its systems, initiated an investigation with leading third-party cybersecurity experts and began coordinating with law enforcement. The Company began bringing its systems back online within days, which limited the incident’s impact on the Company’s operations. Based on the information available to date, the Company believes the incident is contained.

Outlook for Fiscal 2024 First Quarter and Full Year

The Company enters the fiscal year with the continued focus on accelerating balanced and profitable growth across regions, brands, product categories and channels. The rebalancing of inventory in Asia travel retail is expected to partially offset the anticipated growth in many other markets globally, as the industry focuses on the gradual transition of selling to individual travelers, aligned with the environment and regulations. The Company aims to return to net sales growth in fiscal year 2024 and over the next few years progressively rebuild its margins. It also plans to continue to strategically invest in areas to support recovery, share gains and long-term profitable growth. These investments include innovation, advertising, accelerating retail growth in its Asia travel retail business, growth of its emerging markets and the completion of its first manufacturing facility in Asia, located in Japan, to support the development of the Asia/Pacific region. The Company is mindful of the headwinds that have emerged in China’s economy. Lastly, the Company is also conscious of the potential impacts to its business from volatility associated with high inflation, the strengthening U.S. dollar, and recession concerns in many markets globally.

5 Net loss/earnings attributable to The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. for the three months ended June 30, 2023 and 2022, which excludes net earnings/loss attributable to redeemable noncontrolling interests for the three months ended June 30, 2023 and 2022, and net loss attributable to noncontrolling interests for the three months ended June 30, 2022.

The Company remains optimistic by the prospects and future growth in global prestige beauty, and, with its multiple engines of growth and strong brand equity, believes it is well-positioned to drive diversified growth across its portfolio.

The full year outlook reflects the following assumptions and expectations:

The Company continues to monitor the effects of the global macro environment, including the risk of recession; currency volatility; inflationary pressures; supply chain challenges; social and political issues; regulatory matters, including the imposition of tariffs and sanctions; geopolitical tensions; and global security issues. The Company is also mindful of inflationary pressures on our cost base and is monitoring the impact on consumer preferences.

Full Year Fiscal 2024

Sales Outlook

Earnings per Share Outlook

First Quarter Fiscal 2024

Sales Outlook

Earnings per Share Outlook

Reconciliation between GAAP and Non-GAAP - Net Sales Growth
(Unaudited)

Three Months Ending

Twelve Months Ending

September 30, 2023(F)

June 30, 2024(F)

As Reported - GAAP

(12%) - (10

%)

5% - 7

%

Impact of acquisitions, divestitures and brand closures

Impact of foreign currency translation

1

Returns associated with restructuring and other activities

Organic, Non-GAAP

(12%) - (10

%)

6% - 8

%

(F)Represents forecast

Reconciliation between GAAP and Non-GAAP - Diluted Earnings Per Share (“EPS”)
(Unaudited)

Three Months Ending

Twelve Months Ending

September 30

June 30

2023(F)

2022

Growth

2024(F)

2023

Variance

Forecasted/As Reported EPS - GAAP

$(.34) - $(.23

)

$

1.35

(125%) - (117%)

$3.43 - $3.70

$

2.79

23% - 33%

Non-GAAP

Restructuring and other charges

.02 - .03

.02

.05 - .07

.18

Change in fair value of acquisition-related
stock options (less the portion attributable to
redeemable noncontrolling interest)

.05

Other intangible asset impairments

.44

Forecasted/Adjusted EPS - Non-GAAP

$(.31) - $(.21

)

$

1.37

(123%) - (115%)

$3.50 - $3.75

$

3.46

1% - 8%

Impact of foreign currency translation

.02

.11

Forecasted/Adjusted Constant Currency EPS -
Non-GAAP

$(.29) - $(.19

)

$

1.37

(121%) - (114%)

$3.61 - $3.86

$

3.46

4% - 12%

(F)Represents forecast

Conference Call The Estée Lauder Companies will host a conference call at 9:30 a.m. (ET) today, August 18, 2023 to discuss its results. The dial-in number for the call is 877-883-0383 in the U.S. or 412-902-6506 internationally (conference ID number: 6722860). The call will also be webcast live at http://www.elcompanies.com/investors/events-and-presentations.

Cautionary Note Regarding Forward-Looking Statements

Statements in this press release, in particular those in “Outlook,” as well as remarks by the CEO and other members of management, may constitute forward-looking statements within the meaning of the Private Securities Litigation Reform Act of 1995. Such statements may address the Company’s expectations regarding sales, earnings or other future financial performance and liquidity, other performance measures, product introductions, entry into new geographic regions, information technology initiatives, new methods of sale, the Company’s long-term strategy, restructuring and other charges and resulting cost savings, and future operations or operating results. These statements may contain words like “expect,” “will,” “will likely result,” “would,” “believe,” “estimate,” “planned,” “plans,” “intends,” “may,” “should,” “could,” “anticipate,” “estimate,” “project,” “projected,” “forecast,” and “forecasted” or similar expressions. Although the Company believes that its expectations are based on reasonable assumptions within the bounds of its knowledge of its business and operations, actual results may differ materially from the Company’s expectations.

Factors that could cause actual results to differ from expectations include, without limitation:

(1)

increased competitive activity from companies in the skin care, makeup, fragrance and hair care businesses;

(2)

the Company’s ability to develop, produce and market new products on which future operating results may depend and to successfully address challenges in the Company’s business;

(3)

consolidations, restructurings, bankruptcies and reorganizations in the retail industry causing a decrease in the number of stores that sell the Company’s products, an increase in the ownership concentration within the retail industry, ownership of retailers by the Company’s competitors or ownership of competitors by the Company’s customers that are retailers and the Company’s inability to collect receivables;

(4)

destocking and tighter working capital management by retailers;

(5)

the success, or changes in timing or scope, of new product launches and the success, or changes in timing or scope, of advertising, sampling and merchandising programs;

(6)

shifts in the preferences of consumers as to where and how they shop;

(7)

social, political and economic risks to the Company’s foreign or domestic manufacturing, distribution and retail operations, including changes in foreign investment and trade policies and regulations of the host countries and of the United States;

(8)

changes in the laws, regulations and policies (including the interpretations and enforcement thereof) that affect, or will affect, the Company’s business, including those relating to its products or distribution networks, changes in accounting standards, tax laws and regulations, environmental or climate change laws, regulations or accords, trade rules and customs regulations, and the outcome and expense of legal or regulatory proceedings, and any action the Company may take as a result;

(9)

foreign currency fluctuations affecting the Company’s results of operations and the value of its foreign assets, the relative prices at which the Company and its foreign competitors sell products in the same markets and the Company’s operating and manufacturing costs outside of the United States;

(10)

changes in global or local conditions, including those due to volatility in the global credit and equity markets, natural or man-made disasters, real or perceived epidemics, supply chain challenges, inflation, or increased energy costs, that could affect consumer purchasing, the willingness or ability of consumers to travel and/or purchase the Company’s products while traveling, the financial strength of the Company’s customers, suppliers or other contract counterparties, the Company’s operations, the cost and availability of capital which the Company may need for new equipment, facilities or acquisitions, the returns that the Company is able to generate on its pension assets and the resulting impact on funding obligations, the cost and availability of raw materials and the assumptions underlying the Company’s critical accounting estimates;

(11)

impacts attributable to the COVID-19 pandemic, including disruptions to the Company’s global business;

(12)

shipment delays, commodity pricing, depletion of inventory and increased production costs resulting from disruptions of operations at any of the facilities that manufacture the Company’s products or at the Company’s distribution or inventory centers, including disruptions that may be caused by the implementation of information technology initiatives, or by restructurings;

(13)

real estate rates and availability, which may affect the Company’s ability to increase or maintain the number of retail locations at which the Company sells its products and the costs associated with the Company’s other facilities;

(14)

changes in product mix to products which are less profitable;

(15)

the Company’s ability to acquire, develop or implement new information technology, including operational technology and websites, on a timely basis and within the Company’s cost estimates; to maintain continuous operations of our new and existing information technology; and to secure the data and other information that may be stored in such technologies or other systems or media;

(16)

the Company’s ability to capitalize on opportunities for improved efficiency, such as publicly-announced strategies and restructuring and cost-savings initiatives, and to integrate acquired businesses and realize value therefrom;

(17)

consequences attributable to local or international conflicts around the world, as well as from any terrorist action, retaliation and the threat of further action or retaliation;

(18)

the timing and impact of acquisitions, investments and divestitures; and

(19)

additional factors as described in the Company’s filings with the Securities and Exchange Commission, including its Annual Report on Form 10-K for the fiscal year ended June 30, 2022.

The Company assumes no responsibility to update forward-looking statements made herein or otherwise.

The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. is one of the world’s leading manufacturers, marketers and sellers of quality skin care, makeup, fragrance and hair care products, and is a steward of luxury and prestige brands globally. The Company’s products are sold in approximately 150 countries and territories under brand names including: Estée Lauder, Aramis, Clinique, Lab Series, Origins, M·A·C, La Mer, Bobbi Brown Cosmetics, Aveda, Jo Malone London, Bumble and bumble, Darphin Paris, TOM FORD, Smashbox, AERIN Beauty, Le Labo, Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, GLAMGLOW, KILIAN PARIS, Too Faced, Dr.Jart+, and the DECIEM family of brands, including The Ordinary and NIOD.

ELC-F

ELC-E

CONSOLIDATED STATEMENT OF EARNINGS
(Unaudited)

Three Months Ended
June 30

Percentage
Change

Year Ended
June 30

Percentage
Change

($ in millions, except per share data)

2023

2022

2023

2022

Net sales(A)

$

3,609

$

3,561

1

%

$

15,910

$

17,737

(10

)%

Cost of sales(A)

1,163

1,031

13

4,564

4,305

6

Gross profit

2,446

2,530

(3

)

11,346

13,432

(16

)

Gross margin

67.8

%

71.0

%

71.3

%

75.7

%

Operating expenses

Selling, general and administrative(B)

2,420

2,334

4

9,575

9,888

(3

)

Restructuring and other charges(A)

31

92

(66

)

55

133

(59

)

Impairment of other intangible assets(C)

25

(100

)

207

241

(14

)

Total operating expenses

2,451

2,451

9,837

10,262

(4

)

Operating expense margin

67.9

%

68.8

%

61.8

%

57.9

%

Operating income (loss)

(5

)

79

(100

+)

1,509

3,170

(52

)

Operating income (loss) margin

(0.1

)%

2.2

%

9.5

%

17.9

%

Interest expense

99

42

100

+

255

167

53

Interest income and investment income, net

53

11

100

+

131

30

100

+

Other components of net periodic benefit cost

(3

)

(100

)

(12

)

(2

)

(100

+)

Other income

1

(100

)

Earnings (loss) before income taxes

(48

)

48

(100

+)

1,397

3,036

(54

)

Provision for income taxes

(16

)

(2

)

(100

+)

387

628

(38

)

Net earnings (loss)

(32

)

50

(100

+)

1,010

2,408

(58

)

Net loss (earnings) attributable to noncontrolling interests

1

(100

)

(7

)

100

Net loss (earnings) attributable to redeemable
noncontrolling interest

(1

)

1

(100

+)

(4

)

(11

)

64

Net earnings (loss) attributable to The Estée Lauder
Companies Inc.

$

(33

)

$

52

(100

+)

$

1,006

$

2,390

(58

)%

Net earnings (loss) attributable to The Estée Lauder
Companies Inc. per common share

Basic

$

(.09

)

$

.15

(100

+)

$

2.81

$

6.64

(58

)%

Diluted

$

(.09

)

$

.14

(100

+)

$

2.79

$

6.55

(57

)%

Weighted-average common shares outstanding

Basic

358.3

358.0

357.9

360.0

Diluted

358.3

361.6

360.9

364.9

(A)In August 2020, the Company announced a two-year restructuring program, Post-COVID Business Acceleration Program (the “PCBA Program”), designed to realign its business to address the dramatic shifts to its distribution landscape and consumer behaviors in the wake of the COVID-19 pandemic. The PCBA Program will help improve efficiency and effectiveness by rebalancing resources to growth areas of prestige beauty. It will further strengthen the Company by building upon the foundational capabilities in which the Company has invested. The PCBA Program’s main areas of focus include accelerating the shift to online with the realignment of the Company’s distribution network reflecting freestanding store and certain department store closures, with a focus on North America and Europe, the Middle East & Africa; the reduction in brick-and-mortar point of sale employees and related support staff; and the redesign of the Company’s regional branded marketing organizations, plus select opportunities in global brands and functions. This program is expected to position the Company to better execute its long-term strategy while strengthening its financial flexibility. The Company approved specific initiatives under the PCBA Program through fiscal 2022 and has substantially completed those initiatives through fiscal 2023. As of June 30, 2023, the Company expects that the PCBA Program will result in related restructuring and other charges totaling between $450 million and $480 million, before taxes.

(B)For the three and twelve months ended June 30, 2023, the Company recorded $24 million ($19 million, less the portion attributable to redeemable noncontrolling interest and net of tax, or $.05 per common share) and $22 million ($17 million, less the portion attributable to redeemable noncontrolling interest and net of tax, or $.05 per common share), respectively, of expense related to the change in fair value of acquisition-related stock options related to DECIEM. For the three and twelve months ended June 30, 2022, the Company recorded $3 million ($3 million, less portion attributable to redeemable noncontrolling interest and net of tax, or $.01 per common share) and $(55) million ($(43) million, less the portion attributable to redeemable noncontrolling interest and net of tax, or ($.12), respectively, of expense (income) related to the change in fair value of acquisition-related stock options related to DECIEM.

C)During the fiscal 2023 second quarter, given the lower-than-expected results in the overall business, the Company revised the internal forecasts relating to its Smashbox reporting unit. The Company concluded that the changes in circumstances in the reporting unit triggered the need for an interim impairment review of its trademark intangible asset. The remaining carrying value of the trademark intangible asset was not recoverable and the Company recorded an impairment charge of $21 million reducing the carrying value to zero.

During the fiscal 2023 second quarter, the Dr.Jart+ reporting unit experienced lower-than-expected growth within key geographic regions and channels that continue to be impacted by the spread of COVID-19 variants, resurgence in cases, and the potential future impacts relating to the uncertainty of the duration and severity of COVID-19 impacting the financial performance of the reporting unit. In addition, due to macro-economic factors, Dr.Jart+ has experienced lower-than-expected growth within key geographic regions. The Too Faced reporting unit experienced lower-than-expected results in key geographic regions and channels coupled with delays in future international expansion to areas that continue to be impacted by COVID-19. As a result, the Company revised the internal forecasts relating to its Dr.Jart+ and Too Faced reporting units. Additionally, there were increases in the weighted average cost of capital for both reporting units as compared to the prior year annual goodwill and other indefinite-lived intangible asset impairment testing as of April 1, 2022.

The Company concluded that the changes in circumstances in the reporting units, along with increases in the weighted average cost of capital, triggered the need for interim impairment reviews of their trademarks and goodwill. These changes in circumstances were also an indicator that the carrying amounts of Dr.Jart+’s and Too Faced’s long-lived assets, including customer lists, may not be recoverable. Accordingly, the Company performed interim impairment tests for the trademarks and a recoverability test for the long-lived assets as of November 30, 2022. The Company concluded that the carrying value of the trademark intangible assets exceeded their estimated fair values, which were determined utilizing the relief-from-royalty method to determine discounted projected future cash flows and recorded an impairment charge of $100 million for Dr.Jart+ and $86 million for Too Faced. The Company concluded that the carrying amounts of the long-lived assets were recoverable. After adjusting the carrying values of the trademarks, the Company completed interim quantitative impairment tests for goodwill. As the estimated fair value of the Dr.Jart+ and Too Faced reporting units were in excess of their carrying values, the Company concluded that the carrying amounts of the goodwill were recoverable and did not record a goodwill impairment charge related to these reporting units. The fair values of these reporting units were based upon an equal weighting of the income and market approaches, utilizing estimated cash flows and a terminal value, discounted at a rate of return that reflects the relative risk of the cash flows, as well as valuation multiples derived from comparable publicly traded companies that are applied to operating performance of the reporting units. The significant assumptions used in these approaches include revenue growth rates and profit margins, terminal values, weighted average cost of capital used to discount future cash flows and royalty rates for trademarks. The most significant unobservable input used to estimate the fair values of the Dr.Jart+ and Too Faced trademark intangible assets was the weighted-average cost of capital, which was 11% and 13%, respectively.

For the twelve months ended June 30, 2023, other intangible asset impairment charges were $207 million ($159 million, net of tax), with an impact of $.44 per common share.

During the fiscal 2022 third quarter, given the lower-than-expected results from international expansion to areas that continue to be impacted by COVID-19, the Company made revisions to the internal forecasts relating to its GLAMGLOW reporting unit. The Company concluded that the changes in circumstances in the reporting unit triggered the need for an interim impairment review of its trademark intangible asset.

During the fiscal 2022 third quarter, given the lower-than-expected growth within key geographic regions and channels for Dr.Jart+ that continue to be impacted by the spread of COVID-19 variants and resurgence in cases and the potential future impacts relating to the uncertainty of the duration and severity of COVID-19 impacting the financial performance of the brand, the lower than expected growth in key retail channels for DECIEM, and the lower than expected results from international expansion to areas that continue to be impacted by COVID-19 for Too Faced, the Company made revisions to the internal forecasts relating to its Dr.Jart+, DECIEM and Too Faced reporting units.

The Company concluded that the changes in circumstances in the reporting units triggered the need for interim impairment reviews of their trademarks and goodwill. These changes in circumstances were also an indicator that the carrying amounts of Dr.Jart+’s, DECIEM’s and Too Faced’s long-lived assets, including customer lists, may not be recoverable. Accordingly, the Company performed interim impairment tests for the trademarks and a recoverability test for the long-lived assets as of February 28, 2022. The Company concluded that the carrying amounts of the long-lived assets were recoverable. For the Dr.Jart+ reporting unit, the Company also concluded that the carrying value of the trademark intangible asset exceeded its estimated fair value and recorded an impairment charge. For the Too Faced and DECIEM reporting units, as the carrying values of the trademarks did not exceed their estimated fair values the Company did not record impairment charges. After adjusting the carrying values of the trademarks, the Company completed interim quantitative impairment tests for goodwill. As the estimated fair value of the Dr.Jart+, DECIEM and Too Faced reporting units were in excess of their carrying values, the Company concluded that the carrying amounts of the goodwill were recoverable and did not record a goodwill impairment charge related to these reporting units.

During the fiscal 2022 fourth quarter, based on the Company’s annual goodwill and other indefinite-lived intangible asset impairment testing as of April 1, 2022, the Company determined that the carrying value of the Dr.Jart+ trademark exceeded its fair value. This determination was made based on updated internal forecasts. Given the lower-than-expected growth within key geographic regions and channels that continued to be impacted by the spread of COVID-19 variants, the resurgence in cases, regional lockdowns and the potential future impacts relating to the uncertainty of the duration and severity of COVID-19 impacting the financial performance of the brand, we made revisions to the internal forecasts relating to the Dr.Jart+ reporting unit. These changes in circumstances were also indicators that the carrying amounts of their respective long-lived assets may not be recoverable. The Company concluded that the carrying value of the trademark intangible asset exceeded its estimated fair value. The Company concluded that the carrying amount of the long-lived assets were recoverable. For the three months ended June 30, 2022, the Company recognized other intangible asset impairment charges of $25 million ($19 million, net of tax, or $.05 per common share) relating to the Dr.Jart+ reporting unit.

The total other intangible asset impairment charges recorded for the twelve months ended June 30, 2022 were $241 million ($183 million, net of tax), with an impact of $.50 per common share.

Returns and Charges Associated With Restructuring and Other Activities and Other Adjustments
(Unaudited)

Three Months Ended June 30, 2023

Sales
Returns

Cost of
Sales

Operating Expenses

Total

After
Redeemable
Noncontrolling
Interest and Tax

Diluted
EPS

(In millions, except per share data)

Restructuring
Charges

Other Charges/
Adjustments

Leading Beauty Forward

$

$

$

$

3

$

3

$

1

$

PCBA Program

17

4

23

5

49

40

.11

Change in fair value of acquisition-related stock
options

24

24

19

.05

Total

$

17

$

4

$

23

$

32

$

76

$

60

$

.16

Year Ended June 30, 2023

Sales
Returns

Cost of
Sales

Operating Expenses

Total

After
Redeemable
Noncontrolling
Interest and Tax

Diluted
EPS

(In millions, except per share data)

Restructuring
Charges

Other Charges/
Adjustments

Leading Beauty Forward

$

$

$

1

$

7

$

8

$

6

$

.02

PCBA Program

27

3

35

12

77

60

.16

Change in fair value of acquisition-related stock
options

22

22

17

.05

Other intangible asset impairments

207

207

159

.44

Total

$

27

$

3

$

36

$

248

$

314

$

242

$

.67

Three Months Ended June 30, 2022

Sales
Returns

Cost of
Sales

Operating Expenses

Total

After
Redeemable
Noncontrolling
Interest and Tax

Diluted
EPS

(In millions, except per share data)

Restructuring
Charges

Other Charges/
Adjustments

Leading Beauty Forward

$

$

$

1

$

3

$

4

$

3

$

.01

PCBA Program

1

7

85

3

96

76

.21

Change in fair value of acquisition-related stock
options

3

3

3

.01

Other intangible asset impairments

25

25

19

.05

Total

$

1

$

7

$

86

$

34

$

128

$

101

$

.28

Year Ended June 30, 2022

Sales
Returns

Cost of
Sales

Operating Expenses

Total

After
Redeemable
Noncontrolling
Interest and Tax

Diluted
EPS

(In millions, except per share data)

Restructuring
Charges

Other Charges/
Adjustments

Leading Beauty Forward

$

$

2

$

(1

)

$

16

$

17

$

13

$

.04

PCBA Program

4

5

109

9

127

100

.27

Change in fair value of acquisition-related stock
options

(55

)

(55

)

(43

)

(.12

)

Other intangible asset impairments

241

241

183

.50

Other income

(1

)

(1

)

(1

)

Total

$

4

$

7

$

108

$

210

$

329

$

252

$

.69

Results by Product Category

(Unaudited)

Three Months Ended June 30

Net Sales

Percentage Change(1)

Operating
Income (Loss)

Percentage
Change

($ in millions)

2023

2022

Reported
Basis

Impact of
Acquisitions,
Divestitures
and Brand
Closures, Net

Impact of
Foreign
Currency
Translation

Organic
Net Sales
(Non-GAAP)

2023

2022

Reported
Basis

Skin Care

$

1,794

$

1,883

(5

)%

%

2

%

(3

)%

$

(3

)

$

287

(100

+%)

Makeup

1,108

993

12

2

13

14

(95

)

100

+

Fragrance

545

521

5

6

2

12

41

10

100

+

Hair Care

164

156

5

1

6

(3

)

(20

)

85

Other

15

9

67

(100

+)

(60

)

(2

)

(3

)

33

Subtotal

$

3,626

$

3,562

2

%

%

2

%

4

%

$

47

$

179

(74

)%

Returns/charges
associated with
restructuring and
other activities

(17

)

(1

)

(52

)

(100

)

Total

$

3,609

$

3,561

1

%

%

2

%

4

%

$

(5

)

$

79

(100

+%)

(1)Percentages are calculated on an individual basis

Results by Geographic Region
(Unaudited)

Three Months Ended June 30

Net Sales

Percentage Change(1)

Operating
Income (Loss)

Percentage
Change

($ in millions)

2023

2022

Reported
Basis

Impact of
Acquisitions,
Divestitures
and Brand
Closures, Net

Impact of
Foreign
Currency
Translation

Organic
Net Sales
(Non-GAAP)

2023

2022

Reported
Basis

The Americas

$

1,071

$

1,076

%

%

%

%

$

(20

)

$

115

(100

+%)

Europe, the
Middle East &
Africa

1,253

1,480

(15

)

1

(15

)

(76

)

(6

)

(100

+)

Asia/Pacific

1,302

1,006

29

6

36

143

70

100

+

Subtotal

$

3,626

$

3,562

2

%

%

2

%

4

%

$

47

$

179

(74

)%

Returns/charges
associated with
restructuring and
other activities

(17

)

(1

)

(52

)

(100

)

Total

$

3,609

$

3,561

1

%

%

2

%

4

%

$

(5

)

$

79

(100

+%)

(1)Percentages are calculated on an individual basis

This earnings release includes some non-GAAP financial measures relating to charges associated with restructuring and other activities and adjustments, as well as organic net sales. Included herein are reconciliations between the non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable GAAP measures for certain consolidated statements of earnings accounts before and after these items. The Company uses certain non-GAAP financial measures, among other financial measures, to evaluate its operating performance, which represent the manner in which the Company conducts and views its business. Management believes that excluding certain items that are not comparable from period-to-period, or do not reflect the Company’s underlying ongoing business, provides transparency for such items and helps investors and others compare and analyze operating performance from period to period. In the future, the Company expects to incur charges or make adjustments similar in nature to those presented herein; however, the impact to the Company’s results in a given period may be highly variable and difficult to predict. The Company’s non-GAAP financial measures may not be comparable to similarly titled measures used by, or determined in a manner consistent with, other companies. While the Company considers the non-GAAP measures useful in analyzing its results, they are not intended to replace, or act as a substitute for, any presentation included in the consolidated financial statements prepared in conformity with GAAP.

The Company operates on a global basis, with the majority of its net sales generated outside the United States. Accordingly, fluctuations in foreign currency exchange rates can affect the Company’s results of operations. Therefore, the Company presents certain net sales, operating results and diluted earnings per share information excluding the effect of foreign currency rate fluctuations to provide a framework for assessing the performance of its underlying business outside the United States. Constant currency information compares results between periods as if exchange rates had remained constant period-over-period. The Company calculates constant currency information by translating current-period results using prior-year period monthly average foreign currency exchange rates and adjusting for the period-over-period impact of foreign currency cash flow hedging activities.

Reconciliation of Certain Consolidated Statements of Earnings Accounts
Before and After Returns, Charges and Other Adjustments
(Unaudited)

Three Months Ended June 30

2023

2022

% Change

($ in millions, except per

share data)

As
Reported

Returns/
Charges/
Adjustments

Non-
GAAP

Impact of
Foreign
Currency
Translation

Non-
GAAP,
Constant
Currency

As
Reported

Returns/
Charges/
Adjustments

Non-
GAAP

Non-
GAAP

Non-
GAAP,
Constant
Currency

Net sales

$

3,609

$

17

$

3,626

$

64

$

3,690

$

3,561

$

1

$

3,562

2

%

4

%

Gross profit

2,446

21

2,467

50

2,517

2,530

8

2,538

(3

)%

(1

)%

Operating (loss)
income

(5

)

76

71

18

89

79

128

207

(66

)%

(57

)%

Diluted EPS

$

(.09

)

$

.16

$

.07

$

.04

$

.11

$

.14

$

.28

$

.42

(82

)%

(75

)%

Reconciliation of Certain Consolidated Statements of Earnings Accounts
Before and After Returns, Charges and Other Adjustments
(Unaudited)

Year Ended June 30

2023

2022

% Change

($ in millions, except per
share data)

As
Reported

Returns/
Charges/
Adjustments

Non-
GAAP

Impact of
Foreign
Currency
Translation

Non-
GAAP,
Constant
Currency

As
Reported

Returns/
Charges/
Adjustments

Non-
GAAP

Non-
GAAP

Non-
GAAP,
Constant
Currency

Net sales

$

15,910

$

27

$

15,937

$

629

$

16,566

$

17,737

$

4

$

17,741

(10

)%

(7

)%

Gross profit

11,346

30

11,376

492

11,868

13,432

11

13,443

(15

)%

(12

)%

Operating income

1,509

314

1,823

126

1,949

3,170

330

3,500

(48

)%

(44

)%

Diluted EPS

$

2.79

$

.67

$

3.46

$

.26

$

3.72

$

6.55

$

.69

$

7.24

(52

)%

(49

)%

CONDENSED CONSOLIDATED BALANCE SHEETS
(Unaudited, except where noted)

June 30,
2023

June 30,
2022

($ in millions)

(Audited)

ASSETS

Cash and cash equivalents

$

4,029

$

3,957

Accounts receivable, net

1,452

1,629

Inventory and promotional merchandise

2,979

2,920

Prepaid expenses and other current assets

679

792

Total current assets

9,139

9,298

Property, plant and equipment, net

3,179

2,650

Operating lease right-of-use assets

1,797

1,949

Other assets

9,300

7,013

Total assets

$

23,415

$

20,910

LIABILITIES AND EQUITY

Current debt

$

997

$

268

Accounts payable

1,670

1,822

Operating lease liabilities

357

365

Other accrued liabilities

3,216

3,360

Total current liabilities

6,240

5,815

Long-term debt

7,117

5,144

Long-term operating lease liabilities

1,698

1,868

Other noncurrent liabilities

1,943

1,651

Total noncurrent liabilities

10,758

8,663

Redeemable noncontrolling interest

832

842

Total equity

5,585

5,590

Total liabilities and equity

$

23,415

$

20,910

SELECT CASH FLOW DATA
(Unaudited, except where noted)

Twelve Months Ended
June 30

($ in millions)

2023

2022
(Audited)

Net earnings

$

1,010

$

2,408

Adjustments to reconcile net earnings to net cash flows from operating
activities:

Depreciation and amortization

744

727

Deferred income taxes

(186

)

(149

)

Other intangible asset impairments

207

241

Other items

312

367

Changes in operating assets and liabilities:

Decrease (increase) in accounts receivable, net

185

(10

)

Increase in inventory and promotional merchandise

(64

)

(602

)

Decrease (increase) in other assets, net

26

(101

)

Increase (decrease) in accounts payable and other liabilities

(503

)

159

Net cash flows provided by operating activities

$

1,731

$

3,040

Other Investing and Financing Sources (Uses):

Capital expenditures

$

(1,003

)

$

(1,040

)

Settlement of net investment hedges

80

108

Purchases of other intangible assets

(2,286

)

Payments for acquired businesses, net of cash acquired

(3

)

Purchases of investments

(8

)

(10

)

Payments to acquire treasury stock

(271

)

(2,309

)

Dividends paid

(925

)

(840

)

Proceeds (repayments) of current debt, net

983

(4

)

Proceeds (repayments) of long-term debt, net

1,730

(18

)

Investors: Rainey Mancini

[email protected]

Media: Jill Marvin

[email protected]

Source: The Estée Lauder Companies Inc.

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