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The Estée Lauder Companies Reports Fiscal 2023 Third Quarter Results

May 3, 2023 6:45 AM

Net Sales Decreased 12% and Diluted EPS Declined 72% to $.43

Organic Net Sales1 Decreased 8% and Adjusted Diluted EPS Fell 74% in Constant Currency

Overall Results Impacted by Slower Asia Travel Retail Recovery while Nearly All Markets

Delivered Net Sales Growth Ahead of Expectations

Lowering Full-Year Outlook to Reflect More Gradual Recovery in Asia Travel Retail

Focused on Accelerating Balanced Growth Post-Pandemic

NEW YORK--(BUSINESS WIRE)-- The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. (NYSE: EL) today reported net sales of $3.75 billion for its third quarter ended March 31, 2023, a decline of 12% from $4.25 billion in the prior-year period, including the negative impact from foreign currency. Organic net sales fell 8%, primarily driven by Asia travel retail in Hainan and Korea. Partially offsetting the pressures affecting the Company’s Asia travel retail business, organic net sales grew in nearly every market, including the developed markets of the United States, the United Kingdom and Hong Kong, and in emerging markets globally. The Fragrance category grew double digits.

The Company reported net earnings of $156 million, compared with net earnings of $558 million in the prior-year period2. The Company’s reported effective tax rate was 44.6% in the quarter, compared to 18.5% in the prior-year period. The increase in rate was primarily due to the expected change in the Company’s geographical mix of earnings for fiscal 2023. Diluted net earnings per common share was $.43, compared with $1.53 reported in the prior-year period. Excluding restructuring and other charges and adjustments as detailed on page 3, adjusted diluted net earnings per common share declined 75% to $.47, decreasing 74% in constant currency. The reported and adjusted declines include a negative impact of 3% from certain foreign currency transactions in key international travel retail locations.

Fabrizio Freda, President and Chief Executive Officer said, “In the context of a quarter which we anticipated to be challenging, we are pleased to have delivered the high-end of our outlook for the third quarter of fiscal 2023. Our developed and emerging markets grew strongly and exceeded our expectations to offset an even slower-than-expected recovery in Asia travel retail. Each of The Americas and Asia/Pacific returned to organic sales growth, bolstered by increases in the United States and China, while the markets of EMEA continued to prosper. Moreover, we continued to grow our prestige beauty share in many markets, including a sequential acceleration in gains in China and Western Europe.

_________________________________________________

1Organic net sales represents net sales excluding returns associated with restructuring and other activities; non-comparable impacts of acquisitions, divestitures and brand closures; as well as the impact from foreign currency translation. The Company believes that the Non-GAAP measure of organic net sales growth provides year-over-year sales comparisons on a consistent basis. See page 3 for reconciliations to GAAP.

2Net earnings attributable to The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. which excludes net loss (earnings) attributable to redeemable noncontrolling interests for the third fiscal quarter of fiscal 2023 and fiscal 2022 and net earnings attributable to noncontrolling interests for the third quarter of fiscal 2022.

“As the shape of recovery from the pandemic for Asia travel retail comes into better focus, it is proving to be both far more volatile than we expected and more gradual relative to what we experienced in other regions. We are, therefore, lowering our organic sales and EPS outlook for fiscal 2023 to reflect significantly greater headwinds in our fourth quarter than we expected in February.”

Freda concluded, “While we work through the serious but we believe temporary headwinds facing Asia travel retail, we are encouraged by the strong momentum in the rest of our business. Indeed, consumer demand is robust for our diverse portfolio of brands in developed and emerging markets around the world, evidenced in both organic sales growth and retail sales trends, which drives our confidence in the long-term. What is more, we are thrilled to have acquired the TOM FORD brand last week and are optimistic about its promising growth opportunities.”

Business Update
During the fiscal 2023 third quarter, the phase and pace of recovery from the COVID-19 pandemic continued to vary across markets globally. In the West, in both developed and emerging markets, the momentum of post-COVID recovery growth continued with strong organic net sales performance in The Americas and markets in Europe, the Middle East & Africa, excluding travel retail. In Asia/Pacific, markets emerged from COVID restrictions more gradually and over a longer period of time, compared to the pace of recovery experienced in the West. These markets continued to evolve in recovery during the fiscal 2023 third quarter, evidenced by strong organic net sales growth in nearly all Asia/Pacific markets.

While the Company saw recovery in many markets globally, its Asia travel retail business continued to be pressured by the slower than anticipated recovery from the COVID pandemic. Specifically, in Hainan, while traffic into the island exceeded prior year levels, conversion of travelers to consumers in prestige beauty lagged. This led to the slower than anticipated depletion of elevated levels of retailer inventory and, therefore, lower replenishment orders. In Korea, the shipments to duty free retailers were pressured owing to the transition to post-COVID regulations as traveling consumers gradually return. In Korea, as well as in Asia more broadly, the travel retail recovery was challenged by the slower than anticipated resumption of international flights, granting of visas, and organized group tours.

In mainland China, organic net sales grew in the fiscal 2023 third quarter. While January 2023 was pressured by low retail traffic and retailer destocking from the rise in COVID cases that began in November 2022 and continued into January 2023, organic net sales returned to growth, rising double digits in February and March 2023. However, prestige beauty growth was slower than expected for the fiscal 2023 third quarter.

Finally, the Company’s business also continued to be pressured by the strong U.S dollar, historically high inflation and recession concerns.

Fiscal 2023 Third Quarter Results
Reported net sales decreased 12%, including the impact of the license terminations related to certain of the Company’s designer fragrances and the negative impact from foreign currency translation.

Reconciliation between GAAP and Non-GAAP Net Sales Growth
(Unaudited)

Three Months Ended
March 31, 2023(1)

As Reported - GAAP

(12

)%

Impact of the license terminations related to certain of the Company’s designer fragrances

1

Impact of foreign currency translation

3

Returns associated with restructuring and other activities

Organic, Non-GAAP

(8

)%

(1)Percentages are calculated on an individual basis

Adjusted diluted net earnings per common share excludes restructuring and other charges and adjustments as detailed in the following table.

Reconciliation between GAAP and Non-GAAP - Diluted Net Earnings Per Share (“EPS”)
(Unaudited)

Three Months Ended

March 31

2023

2022

Growth

As Reported EPS - GAAP

$

.43

$

1.53

(72

)%

Non-GAAP

Restructuring and other charges

.04

.05

Change in fair value of acquisition-related stock options (less the portion attributable to

redeemable noncontrolling interest)

(.13

)

Other intangible asset impairments

.45

Adjusted EPS - Non-GAAP

$

.47

$

1.90

(75

)%

Impact of foreign currency translation on earnings per share

.02

Adjusted Constant Currency EPS - Non-GAAP

$

.49

$

1.90

(74

)%

Net sales in the Company’s product categories and regions and operating income in most of its product categories and regions were unfavorably impacted by a stronger U.S. dollar in relation to most currencies. Reported net sales was negatively impacted by 3% of foreign currency translation, primarily reflecting a negative impact in Asia/Pacific of 7%. In addition, reported and organic net sales were negatively impacted by 1% from foreign currency transactions in key international travel retail locations, with a negative impact in Europe, the Middle East & Africa of 2%.

Total reported operating income was $297 million, a 60% decrease from $738 million in the prior-year period. In constant currency, adjusted operating income decreased 65%, primarily reflecting lower net sales and higher cost of sales, and excludes the following items:

Results by Product Category
(Unaudited)

Three Months Ended March 31

Net Sales

Percentage Change(1)

Operating
Income (Loss)

Percentage
Change

($ in millions)

2023

2022

Reported
Basis

Impact of
Acquisitions,
Divestitures
and Brand
Closures, Net

Impact of
Foreign
Currency
Translation

Organic
Net Sales
(Non-GAAP)

2023

2022

Reported
Basis

Skin Care

$

1,922

$

2,395

(20

)%

%

3

%

(17

)%

$

256

$

667

(62

)%

Makeup

1,088

1,114

(2

)

2

(15

)

7

(100

+)

Fragrance

585

579

1

10

3

14

89

105

(15

)

Hair Care

149

147

1

2

3

(24

)

(18

)

(33

)

Other

11

11

(8

)

(8

)

9

100

+

Subtotal

$

3,755

$

4,246

(12

)%

1

%

3

%

(8

)%

$

315

$

761

(59

)%

Returns/charges

associated with

restructuring and

other activities

(4

)

(1

)

(18

)

(23

)

Total

$

3,751

$

4,245

(12

)%

1

%

3

%

(8

)%

$

297

$

738

(60

)%

(1)Percentages are calculated on an individual basis

The product category net sales commentary below reflects organic performance, excluding the negative/(positive) impacts which are reflected in the preceding table.

Skin Care

Makeup

Fragrance

Hair Care

Results by Geographic Region
(Unaudited)

Three Months Ended March 31

Net Sales

Percentage Change(1)

Operating
Income (Loss)

Percentage
Change

($ in millions)

2023

2022

Reported
Basis

Impact of
Acquisitions,
Divestitures
and Brand
Closures, Net

Impact of
Foreign
Currency
Translation

Organic
Net Sales
(Non-GAAP)

2023

2022

Reported

Basis

The Americas

$

1,089

$

1,053

3

%

2

%

1

%

6

%

$

(93

)

$

408

(100

+)%

Europe, the

Middle East &

Africa

1,474

1,990

(26

)

1

1

(24

)

176

281

(37

)

Asia/Pacific

1,192

1,203

(1

)

1

7

7

232

72

100

+

Subtotal

$

3,755

$

4,246

(12

)%

1

%

3

%

(8

)%

$

315

$

761

(59

)%

Returns/charges

associated with

restructuring and

other activities

(4

)

(1

)

(18

)

(23

)

Total

$

3,751

$

4,245

(12

)%

1

%

3

%

(8

)%

$

297

$

738

(60

)%

(1)Percentages are calculated on an individual basis

The geographic region net sales commentary below reflects organic performance, excluding the negative impacts which are reflected in the preceding table.

The Americas

Europe, the Middle East & Africa

Asia/Pacific

Nine-Months Results

_________________________________________________

3Emerging markets in Europe, the Middle East & Africa are India, the Middle East, Turkey, South Africa, Central Europe, Israel, Kazakhstan and Russia.

4Emerging markets in Asia/Pacific are Thailand, Malaysia, Vietnam, Indonesia, the Philippines and Singapore.

5Net earnings attributable to The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. which excludes net (earnings) attributable to redeemable noncontrolling interests for the nine months ended March 31, 2023 and 2022 and noncontrolling interests for the nine months ended March 31, 2022.

Cash Flows

Outlook
The Company expects organic net sales to return to growth in the fourth quarter, reflecting continued momentum of post-COVID recovery growth in nearly all markets globally. The impacts from the ongoing pressures in Asia travel retail, driven primarily by risks associated with the volatile and slower than originally anticipated pace of recovery, are expected to partially offset the growth in other markets.

The Company remains focused on accelerating balanced growth post-pandemic and optimistic about the prospects and future growth in global prestige beauty. Notwithstanding this difficult environment, the Company plans to continue to invest in its business to support recovery, share gains and long-term growth, including strategic investments in advertising, innovation, support of the retail acceleration of its travel retail business, the growth of its emerging markets, targeted expanded consumer reach and in its new manufacturing facility in Japan.

The full year outlook reflects the following assumptions and expectations:

The Company is mindful of risks related to the effects of the global macro environment, including the risk of recession; geopolitical tensions; foreign currency volatility; inflationary pressures; supply chain disruptions; social and political issues; residual impacts related to the COVID-19 pandemic; regulatory matters, including the imposition of tariffs and sanctions; and global security issues. The Company is also mindful of inflationary pressures on its cost base and consumer behaviors.

Full Year Fiscal 2023

Sales Outlook

Earnings per Share Outlook

Reconciliation between GAAP and Non-GAAP - Net Sales Growth
(Unaudited)

Twelve Months Ending

June 30, 2023(F)

As Reported - GAAP

(12%) - (10

%)

Impact of acquisitions, divestitures and brand closures, net

1

Impact of foreign currency translation

4

Returns associated with restructuring and other activities

Organic, Non-GAAP

(7%) - (5

)%

(F)Represents forecast

Reconciliation between GAAP and Non-GAAP - Diluted Net Earnings Per Share (“EPS”)
(Unaudited)

Twelve Months Ending

June 30

2023(F)

2022

Variance

Forecasted/As Reported EPS - GAAP

$2.62 - $2.76

$

6.55

(60%) - (58%)

Non-GAAP

Restructuring and other charges

.14 - .18

.31

Change in fair value of acquisition-related stock options (less the portion attributable to

redeemable noncontrolling interest)

.05

(.12

)

Other intangible asset impairments

.44

.50

Forecasted/Adjusted EPS - Non-GAAP

$3.29 - $3.39

$

7.24

(55%) - (53%)

Impact of foreign currency translation

.26

Forecasted/Adjusted Constant Currency EPS - Non-GAAP

$3.55 - $3.65

$

7.24

(51%) - (50%)

(F)Represents forecast

Conference Call The Estée Lauder Companies will host a conference call at 9:30 a.m. (ET) today, May 3, 2023 to discuss its results. The dial-in number for the call is 877-883-0383 in the U.S. or 412-902-6506 internationally (conference ID number: 6722860). The call will also be webcast live at http://www.elcompanies.com/investors/events-and-presentations.

Cautionary Note Regarding Forward-Looking Statements
Statements in this press release, in particular those in “Outlook,” as well as remarks by the CEO and other members of management, may constitute forward-looking statements within the meaning of the Private Securities Litigation Reform Act of 1995. Such statements may address the Company’s expectations regarding sales, earnings or other future financial performance and liquidity, other performance measures, product introductions, entry into new geographic regions, information technology initiatives, new methods of sale, the Company’s long-term strategy, restructuring and other charges and resulting cost savings, and future operations or operating results. These statements may contain words like “expect,” “will,” “will likely result,” “would,” “believe,” “estimate,” “planned,” “plans,” “intends,” “may,” “should,” “could,” “anticipate,” “estimate,” “project,” “projected,” “forecast,” and “forecasted” or similar expressions. Although the Company believes that its expectations are based on reasonable assumptions within the bounds of its knowledge of its business and operations, actual results may differ materially from the Company’s expectations.

Factors that could cause actual results to differ from expectations include, without limitation:

(1)

increased competitive activity from companies in the skin care, makeup, fragrance and hair care businesses;

(2)

the Company’s ability to develop, produce and market new products on which future operating results may depend and to successfully address challenges in the Company’s business;

(3)

consolidations, restructurings, bankruptcies and reorganizations in the retail industry causing a decrease in the number of stores that sell the Company’s products, an increase in the ownership concentration within the retail industry, ownership of retailers by the Company’s competitors or ownership of competitors by the Company’s customers that are retailers and the Company’s inability to collect receivables;

(4)

destocking and tighter working capital management by retailers;

(5)

the success, or changes in timing or scope, of new product launches and the success, or changes in timing or scope, of advertising, sampling and merchandising programs;

(6)

shifts in the preferences of consumers as to where and how they shop;

(7)

social, political and economic risks to the Company’s foreign or domestic manufacturing, distribution and retail operations, including changes in foreign investment and trade policies and regulations of the host countries and of the United States;

(8)

changes in the laws, regulations and policies (including the interpretations and enforcement thereof) that affect, or will affect, the Company’s business, including those relating to its products or distribution networks, changes in accounting standards, tax laws and regulations, environmental or climate change laws, regulations or accords, trade rules and customs regulations, and the outcome and expense of legal or regulatory proceedings, and any action the Company may take as a result;

(9)

foreign currency fluctuations affecting the Company’s results of operations and the value of its foreign assets, the relative prices at which the Company and its foreign competitors sell products in the same markets and the Company’s operating and manufacturing costs outside of the United States;

(10)

changes in global or local conditions, including those due to volatility in the global credit and equity markets, natural or man-made disasters, real or perceived epidemics, supply chain challenges, inflation, or increased energy costs, that could affect consumer purchasing, the willingness or ability of consumers to travel and/or purchase the Company’s products while traveling, the financial strength of the Company’s customers, suppliers or other contract counterparties, the Company’s operations, the cost and availability of capital which the Company may need for new equipment, facilities or acquisitions, the returns that the Company is able to generate on its pension assets and the resulting impact on funding obligations, the cost and availability of raw materials and the assumptions underlying the Company’s critical accounting estimates;

(11)

impacts attributable to the COVID-19 pandemic, including disruptions to the Company’s global business;

(12)

shipment delays, commodity pricing, depletion of inventory and increased production costs resulting from disruptions of operations at any of the facilities that manufacture the Company’s products or at the Company’s distribution or inventory centers, including disruptions that may be caused by the implementation of information technology initiatives, or by restructurings;

(13)

real estate rates and availability, which may affect the Company’s ability to increase or maintain the number of retail locations at which the Company sells its products and the costs associated with the Company’s other facilities;

(14)

changes in product mix to products which are less profitable;

(15)

the Company’s ability to acquire, develop or implement new information and distribution technologies and initiatives on a timely basis and within the Company’s cost estimates and the Company’s ability to maintain continuous operations of such systems and the security of data and other information that may be stored in such systems or other systems or media;

(16)

the Company’s ability to capitalize on opportunities for improved efficiency, such as publicly-announced strategies and restructuring and cost-savings initiatives, and to integrate acquired businesses and realize value therefrom;

(17)

consequences attributable to local or international conflicts around the world, as well as from any terrorist action, retaliation and the threat of further action or retaliation;

(18)

the timing and impact of acquisitions, investments and divestitures; and

(19)

additional factors as described in the Company’s filings with the Securities and Exchange Commission, including its Annual Report on Form 10-K for the fiscal year ended June 30, 2022.

The Company assumes no responsibility to update forward-looking statements made herein or otherwise.

The Estée Lauder Companies Inc. is one of the world’s leading manufacturers, marketers and sellers of quality skin care, makeup, fragrance and hair care products, and is a steward of outstanding luxury and prestige brands globally. The Company’s products are sold in approximately 150 countries and territories under brand names including: Estée Lauder, Aramis, Clinique, Lab Series, Origins, M·A·C, La Mer, Bobbi Brown Cosmetics, Aveda, Jo Malone London, Bumble and bumble, Darphin Paris, TOM FORD, Smashbox, AERIN Beauty, Le Labo, Editions de Parfums Frédéric Malle, GLAMGLOW, KILIAN PARIS, Too Faced, Dr.Jart+, and the DECIEM family of brands, including The Ordinary and NIOD.

ELC-F
ELC-E

CONSOLIDATED STATEMENT OF EARNINGS
(Unaudited)

Three Months Ended
March 31

Percentage
Change

Nine Months Ended
March 31

Percentage
Change

($ in millions, except per share data)

2023

2022

2023

2022

Net sales(A)

$

3,751

$

4,245

(12

)%

$

12,301

$

14,176

(13

)%

Cost of sales(A)

1,159

994

17

3,401

3,274

4

Gross profit

2,592

3,251

(20

)

8,900

10,902

(18

)

Gross margin

69.1

%

76.6

%

72.4

%

76.9

%

Operating expenses

Selling, general and administrative(B)

2,281

2,275

7,155

7,554

(5

)

Restructuring and other charges(A)

14

22

(36

)

24

41

(41

)

Impairment of other intangible assets(C)

216

(100

)

207

216

(4

)

Total operating expenses

2,295

2,513

(9

)

7,386

7,811

(5

)

Operating expense margin

61.2

%

59.2

%

60.0

%

55.1

%

Operating income

297

738

(60

)

1,514

3,091

(51

)

Operating income margin

7.9

%

17.4

%

12.3

%

21.8

%

Interest expense

58

41

41

156

125

25

Interest income and investment income, net

37

5

100

+

78

19

100

+

Other components of net periodic benefit cost

(4

)

(1

)

(100

+)

(9

)

(2

)

(100

+)

Other income

1

(100

)

Earnings before income taxes

280

703

(60

)

1,445

2,988

(52

)

Provision for income taxes

125

130

(4

)

403

630

(36

)

Net earnings

155

573

(73

)

1,042

2,358

(56

)

Net earnings attributable to noncontrolling interests

(3

)

100

(8

)

100

Net loss (earnings) attributable to redeemable

noncontrolling interest

1

(12

)

100

+

(3

)

(12

)

75

Net earnings attributable to The Estée Lauder

Companies Inc.

$

156

$

558

(72

)%

$

1,039

$

2,338

(56

)%

Net earnings attributable to The Estée Lauder

Companies Inc. per common share

Basic

$

.44

$

1.55

(72

)%

$

2.90

$

6.48

(55

)%

Diluted

$

.43

$

1.53

(72

)%

$

2.88

$

6.39

(55

)%

Weighted-average common shares outstanding

Basic

357.9

359.2

357.8

360.7

Diluted

361.2

363.6

360.9

365.8

(A)In August 2020, the Company announced a two-year restructuring program, Post-COVID Business Acceleration Program (the “PCBA Program”), designed to realign its business to address the dramatic shifts to its distribution landscape and consumer behaviors in the wake of the COVID-19 pandemic. The PCBA Program will help improve efficiency and effectiveness by rebalancing resources to growth areas of prestige beauty. It is expected to further strengthen the Company by building upon the foundational capabilities in which the Company has invested. The PCBA Program’s main areas of focus include accelerating the shift to online with the realignment of the Company’s distribution network reflecting freestanding store and certain department store closures, with a focus on North America and Europe, the Middle East & Africa; the reduction in brick-and-mortar point of sale employees and related support staff; and the redesign of the Company’s regional branded marketing organizations, plus select opportunities in global brands and functions. This program is expected to position the Company to better execute its long-term strategy while strengthening its financial flexibility. The Company approved specific initiatives under the PCBA Program through fiscal 2022 and expects to substantially complete those initiatives through fiscal 2023. As of March 31, 2023, the Company expects that the PCBA Program will result in related restructuring and other charges totaling between $450 million and $480 million, before taxes.

(B)For the three and nine months ended March 31, 2023, the Company recorded $1 million ($1 million, less the portion attributable to redeemable noncontrolling interest and net of tax) and $(2) million ($(2) million, less the portion attributable to redeemable noncontrolling interest and net of tax), respectively, of expense (income) related to the change in fair value of acquisition-related stock options related to DECIEM, and recorded $(60) million ($(48) million, less the portion attributable to redeemable noncontrolling interest and net of tax), and $(58) million ($(46) million, less the portion attributable to redeemable noncontrolling interest and net of tax) of income for the three and nine months ended March 31, 2022, respectively.

(C)During the fiscal 2023 second quarter, given the lower-than-expected results in the overall business, the Company made revisions to the internal forecasts relating to its Smashbox reporting unit. The Company concluded that the changes in circumstances in the reporting unit triggered the need for an interim impairment review of its trademark intangible asset. The remaining carrying value of the trademark intangible asset was not recoverable and the Company recorded an impairment charge of $21 million reducing the carrying value to zero.

During the fiscal 2023 second quarter, the Dr.Jart+ reporting unit experienced lower-than-expected growth within key geographic regions and channels that continue to be impacted by the spread of COVID-19 variants, resurgence in cases, and the potential future impacts relating to the uncertainty of the duration and severity of COVID-19 impacting the financial performance of the reporting unit. In addition, due to macro-economic factors, Dr.Jart+ has experienced lower-than-expected growth within key geographic regions. The Too Faced reporting unit experienced lower-than-expected results in key geographic regions and channels coupled with delays in future international expansion to areas that continue to be impacted by COVID-19. As a result, the Company made revisions to the internal forecasts relating to its Dr.Jart+ and Too Faced reporting units. Additionally, there were increases in the weighted average cost of capital for both reporting units as compared to the prior year annual goodwill and other indefinite-lived intangible asset impairment testing as of April 1, 2022.

The Company concluded that the changes in circumstances in the reporting units, along with increases in the weighted average cost of capital, triggered the need for interim impairment reviews of their trademarks and goodwill. These changes in circumstances were also an indicator that the carrying amounts of Dr.Jart+’s and Too Faced’s long-lived assets, including customer lists, may not be recoverable. Accordingly, the Company performed interim impairment tests for the trademarks and a recoverability test for the long-lived assets as of November 30, 2022. The Company concluded that the carrying value of the trademark intangible assets exceeded their estimated fair values, which were determined utilizing the relief-from-royalty method to determine discounted projected future cash flows and recorded an impairment charge of $100 million for Dr.Jart+ and $86 million for Too Faced. The Company concluded that the carrying amounts of the long-lived assets were recoverable. After adjusting the carrying values of the trademarks, the Company completed interim quantitative impairment tests for goodwill. As the estimated fair value of the Dr.Jart+ and Too Faced reporting units were in excess of their carrying values, the Company concluded that the carrying amounts of the goodwill were recoverable and did not record a goodwill impairment charge related to these reporting units. The fair values of these reporting units were based upon an equal weighting of the income and market approaches, utilizing estimated cash flows and a terminal value, discounted at a rate of return that reflects the relative risk of the cash flows, as well as valuation multiples derived from comparable publicly traded companies that are applied to operating performance of the reporting units. The significant assumptions used in these approaches include revenue growth rates and profit margins, terminal values, weighted average cost of capital used to discount future cash flows and royalty rates for trademarks. The most significant unobservable input used to estimate the fair values of the Dr.Jart+ and Too Faced trademark intangible assets was the weighted-average cost of capital, which was 11% and 13%, respectively.

For the nine months ended March 31, 2023, other intangible asset impairment charges were $207 million ($159 million, net of tax), with an impact of $.44 per common share.

During the fiscal 2022 third quarter, given the lower-than-expected results from international expansion to areas that continue to be impacted by COVID-19, the Company made revisions to the internal forecasts relating to its GLAMGLOW reporting unit. The Company concluded that the changes in circumstances in the reporting unit triggered the need for an interim impairment review of its trademark intangible asset. As of March 31, 2022, the remaining carrying value of the trademark intangible asset was not recoverable and the Company recorded an impairment charge of $11 million reducing the carrying value to zero.

During the fiscal 2022 third quarter, given the lower-than-expected growth within key geographic regions and channels for Dr.Jart+ that continue to be impacted by the spread of COVID-19 variants and resurgence in cases and the potential future impacts relating to the uncertainty of the duration and severity of COVID-19 impacting the financial performance of the brand, the lower than expected growth in key retail channels for DECIEM, and the lower than expected results from international expansion to areas that continue to be impacted by COVID-19 for Too Faced, the Company made revisions to the internal forecasts relating to its Dr. Jart+, DECIEM and Too Faced reporting units.

The Company concluded that the changes in circumstances in the reporting units triggered the need for interim impairment reviews of their trademarks and goodwill. These changes in circumstances were also an indicator that the carrying amounts of Dr.Jart+’s, DECIEM’s and Too Faced’s long-lived assets, including customer lists, may not be recoverable. Accordingly, the Company performed interim impairment tests for the trademarks and a recoverability test for the long-lived assets as of February 28, 2022. The Company concluded that the carrying amounts of the long-lived assets were recoverable. For the Dr.Jart+ reporting unit, the Company also concluded that the carrying value of the trademark intangible asset exceeded its estimated fair value, which was determined utilizing the relief-from-royalty method to determine discounted projected future cash flows, and recorded an impairment charge. For the Too Faced and DECIEM reporting units, as the carrying values of the trademarks did not exceed their estimated fair values, which were determined utilizing the relief-from-royalty method to determine discounted projected future cash flows, the Company did not record impairment charges. As of March 31, 2022, the estimated fair values of Too Faced’s and DECIEM’s trademarks exceeded their carrying values by 13% and 3%, respectively. For the Too Faced and DECIEM trademark intangible assets, if all other assumptions are held constant, an increase of 100 basis points and 50 basis points, respectively, in the weighted average cost of capital would result in an impairment charge. After adjusting the carrying values of the trademarks, the Company completed interim quantitative impairment tests for goodwill. As the estimated fair value of the Dr.Jart+, DECIEM and Too Faced reporting units were in excess of their carrying values, the Company concluded that the carrying amounts of the goodwill were recoverable and did not record a goodwill impairment charge related to these reporting units. The fair value of these reporting units were based upon an equal weighting of the income and market approaches, utilizing estimated cash flows and a terminal value, discounted at a rate of return that reflects the relative risk of the cash flows, as well as valuation multiples derived from comparable publicly traded companies that are applied to operating performance of the reporting units. The significant assumptions used in these approaches include revenue growth rates and profit margins, terminal values, weighted average cost of capital used to discount future cash flows and royalty rates for trademarks. The most significant unobservable input used to estimate the fair value of the Dr. Jart+ trademark intangible asset was the weighted-average cost of capital, which was 10.5%.

For the three and nine months ended March 31, 2022, other intangible asset impairment charges were $216 million ($164 million, less the portion attributable to noncontrolling interest and net of tax), with an impact of $.45 per common share in both periods.

Returns and Charges Associated With Restructuring and Other Activities and Other Adjustments
(Unaudited)

Three Months Ended March 31, 2023

Sales Returns

Cost of Sales

Operating Expenses

Total

After
Redeemable
Noncontrolling
Interest and
Tax

Diluted EPS

(In millions, except per share data)

Restructuring
Charges

Other
Charges/
Adjustments

Leading Beauty Forward

$

$

$

3

$

1

$

4

$

4

$

.01

PCBA Program

4

6

4

14

10

.03

Change in fair value of acquisition-related

stock options

1

1

1

Other intangible asset impairments

Total

$

4

$

$

9

$

6

$

19

$

15

$

.04

Nine Months Ended March 31, 2023

Sales Returns

Cost of Sales

Operating Expenses

Total

After
Redeemable
Noncontrolling
Interest and
Tax

Diluted EPS

(In millions, except per share data)

Restructuring
Charges

Other
Charges/
Adjustments

Leading Beauty Forward

$

$

$

1

$

4

$

5

$

5

$

.01

PCBA Program

10

(1

)

12

7

28

20

.06

Change in fair value of acquisition-related

stock options

(2

)

(2

)

(2

)

(.01

)

Other intangible asset impairments

207

207

159

.44

Total

$

10

$

(1

)

$

13

$

216

$

238

$

182

$

.50

Three Months Ended March 31, 2022

Sales Returns

Cost of Sales

Operating Expenses

Total

After
Redeemable
Noncontrolling
Interest and
Tax

Diluted EPS

(In millions, except per share data)

Restructuring
Charges

Other
Charges/
Adjustments

Leading Beauty Forward

$

$

$

(1

)

$

5

$

4

$

3

$

.01

PCBA Program

1

17

1

19

14

.04

Change in fair value of acquisition-related

stock options

(60

)

(60

)

(48

)

(.13

)

Other intangible asset impairments

216

216

164

.45

Total

$

1

$

$

16

$

162

$

179

$

133

$

.37

Nine Months Ended March 31, 2022

Sales Returns

Cost of Sales

Operating Expenses

Total

After
Redeemable
Noncontrolling
Interest and
Tax

Diluted EPS

(In millions, except per share data)

Restructuring
Charges

Other
Charges/
Adjustments

Leading Beauty Forward

$

$

2

$

(2

)

$

13

$

13

$

10

$

.03

PCBA Program

3

(2

)

24

6

31

24

.06

Change in fair value of acquisition-related

stock options

(58

)

(58

)

(46

)

(.13

)

Other intangible asset impairments

216

216

164

.45

Other income

(1

)

(1

)

(1

)

Total

$

3

$

$

22

$

176

$

201

$

151

$

.41

Results by Product Category
(Unaudited)

Nine Months Ended March 31

Net Sales

Percentage Change(1)

Operating
Income (Loss)

Percentage
Change

($ in millions)

2023

2022

Reported
Basis

Impact of
Acquisitions,
Divestitures
and Brand
Closures, Net

Impact of
Foreign
Currency
Translation

Organic
Net Sales
(Non-GAAP)

2023

2022

Reported
Basis

Skin Care

$

6,408

$

8,003

(20

)%

%

4

%

(16

)%

$

1,207

$

2,466

(51

)%

Makeup

3,408

3,674

(7

)

4

(3

)

(36

)

228

(100

+)

Fragrance

1,967

1,987

(1

)

10

5

14

399

446

(11

)

Hair Care

489

475

3

3

6

(31

)

(8

)

(100

+)

Other

39

40

(3

)

(5

)

6

(2

)

8

3

100

+

Subtotal

$

12,311

$

14,179

(13

)%

1

%

4

%

(8

)%

$

1,547

$

3,135

(51

)%

Returns/charges

associated with

restructuring and

other activities

(10

)

(3

)

(33

)

(44

)

Total

$

12,301

$

14,176

(13

)%

1

%

4

%

(8

)%

$

1,514

$

3,091

(51

)%

(1)Percentages are calculated on an individual basis

Results by Geographic Region

(Unaudited)

Nine Months Ended March 31

Net Sales

Percentage Change(1)

Operating
Income (Loss)

Percentage
Change

($ in millions)

2023

2022

Reported
Basis

Impact of
Acquisitions,
Divestitures
and Brand
Closures, Net

Impact of
Foreign
Currency
Translation

Organic
Net Sales
(Non-GAAP)

2023

2022

Reported
Basis

The Americas

$

3,447

$

3,547

(3

)%

3

%

%

%

$

(53

)

$

1,044

(100

+%)

Europe, the

Middle East &

Africa

4,972

6,201

(20

)

1

3

(16

)

919

1,366

(33

)

Asia/Pacific

3,892

4,431

(12

)

1

8

(3

)

681

725

(6

)

Subtotal

$

12,311

$

14,179

(13

)%

1

%

4

%

(8

)%

$

1,547

$

3,135

(51

)%

Returns/charges

associated with

restructuring and

other activities

(10

)

(3

)

(33

)

(44

)

Total

$

12,301

$

14,176

(13

)%

1

%

4

%

(8

)%

$

1,514

$

3,091

(51

)%

(1)Percentages are calculated on an individual basis

This earnings release includes some non-GAAP financial measures relating to charges associated with restructuring and other activities and adjustments, as well as organic net sales. Included herein are reconciliations between the non-GAAP financial measures and the most directly comparable GAAP measures for certain consolidated statements of earnings accounts before and after these items. The Company uses certain non-GAAP financial measures, among other financial measures, to evaluate its operating performance, which represent the manner in which the Company conducts and views its business. Management believes that excluding certain items that are not comparable from period-to-period, or do not reflect the Company’s underlying ongoing business, provides transparency for such items and helps investors and others compare and analyze operating performance from period-to-period. In the future, the Company expects to incur charges or adjustments similar in nature to those presented herein; however, the impact to the Company’s results in a given period may be highly variable and difficult to predict. The Company’s non-GAAP financial measures may not be comparable to similarly titled measures used by, or determined in a manner consistent with, other companies. While the Company considers the non-GAAP measures useful in analyzing its results, they are not intended to replace, or act as a substitute for, any presentation included in the consolidated financial statements prepared in conformity with GAAP.

The Company operates on a global basis, with the majority of its net sales generated outside the United States. Accordingly, fluctuations in foreign currency exchange rates can affect the Company’s results of operations. Therefore, the Company presents certain net sales, operating results and diluted net earnings per share information excluding the effect of foreign currency rate fluctuations to provide a framework for assessing the performance of its underlying business outside the United States. Constant currency information compares results between periods as if exchange rates had remained constant period-over-period. The Company calculates constant currency information by translating current-period results using prior-year period monthly average foreign currency exchange rates and adjusting for the period-over-period impact of foreign currency cash flow hedging activities.

Reconciliation of Certain Consolidated Statements of Earnings Accounts

Before and After Returns, Charges and Other Adjustments

(Unaudited)

Three Months Ended March 31

2023

2022

% Change

($ in millions, except per
share data)

As
Reported

Returns/
Charges/
Adjustments

Non-
GAAP

Impact of
Foreign
Currency
Translation

Non-
GAAP,
Constant
Currency

As
Reported

Returns/
Charges/
Adjustments

Non-
GAAP

Non-
GAAP

Non-
GAAP,
Constant
Currency

Net sales

$

3,751

$

4

$

3,755

$

107

$

3,862

$

4,245

$

1

$

4,246

(12

)%

(9

)%

Gross profit

2,592

4

2,596

78

2,674

3,251

1

3,252

(20

)%

(18

)%

Operating income

297

19

316

9

325

738

179

917

(66

)%

(65

)%

Diluted EPS

$

.43

$

.04

$

.47

$

.02

$

.49

$

1.53

$

.37

$

1.90

(75

)%

(74

)%

Nine Months Ended March 31

2023

2022

% Change

($ in millions, except per
share data)

As
Reported

Returns/
Charges/
Adjustments

Non-
GAAP

Impact of
Foreign
Currency
Translation

Non-
GAAP,
Constant
Currency

As
Reported

Returns/
Charges/
Adjustments

Non-
GAAP

Non-
GAAP

Non-
GAAP,
Constant
Currency

Net sales

$

12,301

$

10

$

12,311

$

565

$

12,876

$

14,176

$

3

$

14,179

(13

)%

(9

)%

Gross profit

8,900

9

8,909

442

9,351

10,902

3

10,905

(18

)%

(14

)%

Operating income

1,514

238

1,752

108

1,860

3,091

202

3,293

(47

)%

(44

)%

Diluted EPS

$

2.88

$

.50

$

3.38

$

.23

$

3.61

$

6.39

$

.41

$

6.80

(50

)%

(47

)%

CONDENSED CONSOLIDATED BALANCE SHEETS
(Unaudited, except where noted)

March 31,
2023

June 30,
2022

March 31,
2022

($ in millions)

(Audited)

ASSETS

Cash and cash equivalents

$

5,531

$

3,957

$

3,836

Accounts receivable, net

1,904

1,629

2,209

Inventory and promotional merchandise

3,097

2,920

2,830

Prepaid expenses and other current assets

715

792

625

Total current assets

11,247

9,298

9,500

Property, plant and equipment, net

3,026

2,650

2,493

Operating lease right-of-use assets

1,843

1,949

2,034

Other assets

6,599

7,013

7,332

Total assets

$

22,715

$

20,910

$

21,359

LIABILITIES AND EQUITY

Current debt

$

2,243

$

268

$

269

Accounts payable

1,520

1,822

1,470

Operating lease liabilities

357

365

388

Other accrued liabilities

3,580

3,360

3,287

Total current liabilities

7,700

5,815

5,414

Long-term debt

5,128

5,144

5,188

Long-term operating lease liabilities

1,734

1,868

1,948

Other noncurrent liabilities

1,457

1,651

1,758

Total noncurrent liabilities

8,319

8,663

8,894

Redeemable noncontrolling interest

819

842

865

Total equity

5,877

5,590

6,186

Total liabilities and equity

$

22,715

$

20,910

$

21,359

SELECT CASH FLOW DATA
(Unaudited)

Nine Months Ended
March 31

($ in millions)

2023

2022

Net earnings

$

1,042

$

2,358

Adjustments to reconcile net earnings to net cash flows from operating

activities:

Depreciation and amortization

548

546

Deferred income taxes

(70

)

(90

)

Impairment of other intangible assets

207

216

Other items

273

315

Changes in operating assets and liabilities:

Increase in accounts receivable, net

(254

)

(548

)

Increase in inventory and promotional merchandise

(154

)

(398

)

Increase in other assets, net

(69

)

(61

)

Decrease in accounts payable and other liabilities, net

(506

)

(369

)

Net cash flows provided by operating activities

$

1,017

$

1,969

Other Investing and Financing Sources (Uses):

Capital expenditures

$

(652

)

$

(658

)

Settlement of net investment hedges

138

108

Payments to acquire treasury stock

(258

)

(1,998

)

Dividends paid

(687

)

(624

)

Proceeds (repayments) of current debt, net

2,228

(4

)

Repayments and redemptions of long-term debt, net

(261

)

(16

)

Investors:

Rainey Mancini


[email protected]

Media:

Jill Marvin


[email protected]

Source: The Estée Lauder Companies Inc.

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